A short walk from Anděl, River’s Smokelab is an experimental modern kitchen and bar where almost everything on the menu is smoked.
Open for almost a year now, prices have increased, the amuse-bouche (bread with a salted butter) no longer appears and a two-sittings policy has been imposed. Luckily, the menu is still eclectic – the food beautifully presented and delicious.
The interior is modern but cozy.
A glass of Primitivo is over-priced (158 Kč). A 0.75l bottle of filtered water (59 Kč). The wine pour wasn’t specified, but it was at most a 0.15l. A large Vinohradská 11 beer is better value at 72 Kč.
The latest addition to the menu is the Peking plate (for two):
Half an aged smoked duck (slow 8-hour smoked on apple wood at 110 °C), kimchi wonton dumplings, marinated Judas ear, sesame bao buns, fresh Thai salad with mango and peanuts, jasmine rice, five scent sauce. (990 Kč).
Our waiter had tried to tell us this was for one-and-a-half people, not two, which would be a ridiculous portion unless you were a group of three. Luckily, it is definitely for two and we were full. A really delicious platter.
Here are some dishes from our previous visits – prices current as of March 2024.
Starter of Smoked octopus carpaccio, lime salsa, chili, coriander, peppers (325 Kč).
Starter of Smoked pastrami, cucumber pickles, red pearl onions, dijon mayonnaise, pickled mustard seeds (252 Kč).
Main of Smokey duck bao bun – jerked duck in bao bun, homemade kimchi
pickled yuzu, hoisin sauce, fresh coriander, chili, mayonnaise, carrot, spring onion, fries (295 Kč). Plus a jar of kimchi (45 Kč).
The two-sittings policy means you either have to dine, up until 8pm, or from 8pm.
In warm weather, there are tables outside with a view across the street to the river.
River’s Smokelab continues to serve excellent food and is worth a visit – you’ll just pay more for less now.
Janáčkovo nábř. 1, 150 00 Praha 5-Smíchov
Czech Republic
+420 601 338 571
The Prague Review 